The venue is elegantly simple, the lighting is moody and the hi-fi is set on ‘world music’. Welcome to Waly Fay, where those in the know come to dine on dishes from across West Africa and the Antilles. Regulars navigate the menu of Accra, boudin, mafé, thief, Yassa, and dole cuisines with ease, while the helpful staff guides newbies along.

Falling squarely in the latter category, we played it safe by first ordering the trademark dish of West Africa, aloco: fried plantain served with fish dumplings and a citrus-tomato sauce. The plantain was as succulent as it was copious, serving as the perfect accompaniment to the main courses: grilled sea bream seasoned with tomato and persil and served with rice (sublime), and chicken served with pecan nuts, coleslaw, and sweet potato chips. Unable to make room for dessert, we ordered some wine (the only course that doesn’t have its roots in Africa) and ended up with a decent bottle of chardonnay – a lovely grace note to a thoroughly enjoyable meal (€65 for two).